Upgrades & Maintenance

Tools and Materials You Will Need

Before starting, gather the following items. Having everything ready prevents interruptions and reduces the risk of contamination.

• Thermal paste, Choose a reputable brand. Popular options include Arctic MX-6 (NT$250-350 for 4g), Noctua NT-H2 (NT$300-400 for 3.5g), Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut (NT$400-550 for 3g), and Cooler Master MasterGel Maker (NT$200-300 for 2g). Prices are approximate from retailers like CoolPC, PChome, and Syntrend.
• Isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher), For cleaning old paste. Do not use rubbing alcohol with additives, as they can leave residue.
• Lint-free cloth or coffee filter, Microfiber cloths, lens wipes, or coffee filters work well. Avoid cotton swabs or paper towels that can leave fibers.
• Plastic scraper or credit card, Optional, for spreading paste if you prefer the spread method. Some pastes come with a spatula.
• Phillips-head screwdriver, For removing the cooler. Many coolers require a #2 Phillips.
• Anti-static wrist strap (optional), Not mandatory, but recommended when working on sensitive components.

If you are building a new PC from scratch, refer to our complete guide to buying and building a PC in Taiwan for a full parts list and assembly steps.

Step 1: Remove the Old Thermal Paste

If you are re-applying paste on an existing system, you must first remove the old compound. This step is essential because mixing old and new pastes can reduce thermal conductivity and create uneven surfaces.

1. Power off and unplug the PC. Disconnect all cables and press the power button to discharge residual capacitors.
2. Remove the cooler according to its manufacturer instructions. For most air coolers, this involves unscrewing the mounting bracket from the motherboard backplate. For liquid coolers (AIOs), you may need to disconnect the pump header and unscrew the pump block.
3. Wipe the old paste from the CPU IHS (integrated heat spreader) and the cooler base. Dampen a lint-free cloth with isopropyl alcohol and gently wipe in one direction. Repeat until no residue remains. For stubborn paste, let the alcohol sit for 30 seconds before wiping.
4. Inspect the surfaces. Ensure there are no scratches, dents, or leftover paste. If the cooler base has a protective plastic film, remove it before applying new paste.

If you are building a new PC, skip this step. Most new CPUs do not have paste pre-applied on the IHS, but some coolers (especially Intel stock coolers and some AMD Wraith coolers) come with pre-applied paste. If your cooler has pre-applied paste, you can use it directly, but many enthusiasts prefer to remove it and apply their own for better performance.

Step 2: Choose the Right Application Method

There are several established methods for applying thermal paste. The best method depends on your CPU type (IHS size and shape) and personal preference. Below are the most common techniques, with pros and cons.

Pea Method (Recommended for Most CPUs)

Place a single pea-sized dot (about 4-5 mm in diameter, roughly the size of a grain of rice or a small pea) in the center of the CPU IHS. When you mount the cooler, pressure will spread the paste evenly outward. This method works well for all modern CPUs, including Intel LGA 1700/1200 and AMD AM5/AM4 sockets. It is simple, reduces the risk of air bubbles, and usually provides near-perfect coverage.

Line Method (Best for Intel LGA 1700 and AMD Threadripper)

Apply a thin line of paste vertically (for Intel) or horizontally across the center of the IHS. The line should be about 1-2 mm wide and slightly shorter than the length of the IHS. This method is ideal for CPUs with a rectangular die layout (Intel Alder Lake/Raptor Lake) or large multi-chip modules (AMD Threadripper). It ensures paste spreads along the long axis of the die.

Spread Method (Manual Spreading)

Use a plastic spatula or credit card to spread a thin, even layer across the entire IHS. This method gives you full control over thickness but risks introducing air bubbles if not done carefully. It is often used with liquid metal pastes or on direct-die cooling (e.g., delidded CPUs). For standard builds, the pea or line method is easier and equally effective.

X Method (Less Common)

Draw an “X” shape from corner to corner, with a pea-sized dot in the center. This method is sometimes used for very large IHSes (e.g., Intel X299) but can lead to excess paste on the edges. Most tests show it performs similarly to the pea method, but it uses more paste.

For a detailed comparison of CPUs and their IHS sizes, see our CPU comparison: Intel vs AMD article.

Step 3: Apply the Thermal Paste

Once you have chosen your method, follow these steps precisely.

1. Clean your hands or wear gloves. Oils from your skin can contaminate the paste.
2. Shake the syringe gently if recommended by the manufacturer. Some pastes settle over time.
3. Squeeze the paste onto the center of the IHS. For the pea method, aim for a dot about 4-5 mm in diameter. For the line method, draw a line approximately 1-2 mm wide and 10-15 mm long (depending on CPU).
4. Do not spread it manually unless you are using the spread method. The cooler will do the spreading.
5. Mount the cooler immediately. Do not let the paste sit exposed for more than a few minutes, as it can attract dust.

If you are applying paste to a GPU (graphics card), the process is similar but requires disassembling the card. Most modern GPUs use a rectangular die, so the line method or a small pea dot works well. Be extremely careful not to get paste on the PCB or surrounding components. For GPU re-pasting, we recommend watching a teardown video for your specific model.

Step 4: Mount the Cooler

Mounting the cooler is as important as the paste application. Improper mounting can create uneven pressure, causing poor contact and high temperatures.

1. Align the cooler with the mounting holes or brackets. For socket LGA 1700, ensure the cooler’s mounting mechanism is set to the correct hole spacing (78x78 mm for LGA 1700, 75x75 mm for LGA 1200).
2. Tighten screws gradually in a cross pattern (e.g., top-left, bottom-right, top-right, bottom-left). This ensures even pressure. Do not overtighten; most coolers require a firm stop, not excessive force.
3. Connect the fan/pump header to the appropriate motherboard header (CPU_FAN for air coolers, AIO_PUMP for liquid coolers).
4. Check clearance, ensure the cooler does not touch the GPU, RAM, or case side panel.

If you are building a mini-ITX system, clearance is especially tight. See our mini-ITX build guide for tips on cooler compatibility.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

Even experienced builders sometimes make errors. Below are the most frequent mistakes and their solutions.

• Using too much paste, Excess paste can ooze off the IHS and onto the socket pins or motherboard, causing electrical shorts. A pea-sized dot is sufficient. If you see paste squeezing out the sides after mounting, you used too much.
• Using too little paste, Insufficient paste leaves uncovered areas, leading to hot spots. If you remove the cooler later and see large bare patches, you need more next time.
• Spreading paste manually and trapping air, When you spread paste with a card, you can introduce tiny air pockets that reduce conductivity. The pea method avoids this because the cooler’s pressure naturally pushes air out.
• Reusing old paste, Once paste is removed, it should not be reused. Always apply fresh paste.
• Forgetting to remove the plastic protector, Some coolers (especially AIOs) have a clear plastic film on the cold plate. If you mount the cooler without removing it, your CPU will overheat immediately.
• Not cleaning the IHS thoroughly, Residual old paste or dust can create uneven contact. Use 90%+ isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth.
• Mixing different paste types, Do not combine conductive pastes (like liquid metal) with non-conductive pastes. They can react and cause corrosion.

How Much Thermal Paste Should You Use?

The exact amount depends on the size of your CPU IHS and the method. Here are general guidelines:

• Intel LGA 1700/1200, Pea dot of 4-5 mm diameter, or a line of about 10-12 mm length and 1.5 mm width. IHS area is roughly 1,200 mm².
• AMD AM5 (Ryzen 7000/8000 series), Pea dot of 4-5 mm. The IHS is slightly larger than Intel’s (about 1,400 mm²), but the center dot still works well.
• AMD AM4 (Ryzen 1000-5000 series), Pea dot of 3-4 mm. The IHS is smaller (about 1,100 mm²).
• Intel LGA 2066 (HEDT) / AMD TR4, Line method or X method. Use about 0.5-0.8 ml of paste.
• GPU dies, Line method or small pea dot. GPU dies are usually rectangular (e.g., 20x25 mm for RTX 4090). Use a line about 10 mm long.

If you are unsure, start with a pea-sized dot. You can always check coverage after mounting the cooler (by removing it) and adjust your technique next time. Most pastes are non-conductive, so a small mistake is not catastrophic, but cleaning up a mess is tedious.

Which Thermal Paste Should You Buy?

The thermal paste market is crowded, but a few products stand out for their performance, consistency, and ease of application. Below is a short list of recommended pastes available in Taiwan.

• Arctic MX-6, Excellent performance (10.6 W/mK), easy to apply, non-conductive, and long-lasting (up to 8 years). Price: NT$250-350 for 4g. Available at CoolPC, PChome, Shopee.
• Noctua NT-H2, Very high performance (8.5 W/mK), easy to apply, non-conductive, and includes a cleaning wipe. Price: NT$300-400 for 3.5g. Available at Noctua official distributors in Taiwan.
• Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut, Top-tier performance (12.5 W/mK), but slightly more difficult to apply due to its thick consistency. Non-conductive. Price: NT$400-550 for 3g. Available at CoolPC, PC Party, Shopee.
• Cooler Master MasterGel Maker, Good performance (11 W/mK), easy to apply, and affordable. Price: NT$200-300 for 2g. Available at most electronics stores.
• Thermalright TF8, Budget option with decent performance (9.8 W/mK). Price: NT$150-250 for 2g. Often bundled with Thermalright coolers.

For most users, Arctic MX-6 or Noctua NT-H2 offer the best balance of price and performance. If you are overclocking or using a high-end CPU like an Intel Core i9-14900K or AMD Ryzen 9 7950X, consider Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut for slightly lower temperatures (typically 1-3°C better).

If you are building a high-end workstation, investing in premium paste is worthwhile because even a few degrees can improve stability under sustained loads.

How Often Should You Replace Thermal Paste?

Thermal paste does not last forever. Over time, it can dry out, pump out (due to thermal cycling), or degrade. How often you need to replace it depends on the paste quality and your usage.

• High-end pastes (Arctic MX-6, Noctua NT-H2, Kryonaut), Typically last 3-5 years before needing replacement. Some manufacturers claim up to 8 years.
• Budget pastes (generic white paste, stock paste on coolers), May need replacement every 1-2 years.
• Liquid metal, Can last 2-3 years but requires careful monitoring because it can dry out or migrate.

Signs that you need to re-paste include: CPU temperatures rising by 5-10°C under load compared to when new, fans running louder more often, or thermal throttling during normal use. If you notice any of these, it is worth cleaning and re-applying.

If you are upgrading your laptop, note that laptop CPUs often require re-pasting more frequently due to higher thermal density and smaller coolers. Many laptop enthusiasts re-paste every 1-2 years.

Special Considerations for Different Cooler Types

Air Coolers

Air coolers (tower coolers, top-flow coolers) apply even pressure across the IHS. The pea method works well. Ensure the cooler base is clean and flat. Some large air coolers may require you to install the mounting bracket before applying paste, so plan accordingly.

All-in-One (AIO) Liquid Coolers

AIOs have a pump block that sits directly on the CPU. The mounting mechanism often uses a spring-loaded backplate. Apply paste using the pea or line method. Be careful not to overtighten the thumb screws, as it can warp the cold plate. Most AIOs come with pre-applied paste, but many users replace it with a higher-quality paste for better performance.

Custom Water Cooling

For custom loops, the water block base is usually larger and made of copper or nickel-plated copper. Apply paste similarly to an AIO. Some water blocks have a jet plate that requires a specific spread pattern, check the manufacturer’s instructions.

Direct-Die Cooling (Delidding)

If you have delidded your CPU and are using a direct-die cooler (e.g., Thermal Grizzly Mycro Direct-Die), you need to use a non-conductive paste and apply a very thin layer. The die is smaller and more fragile. Use a small pea dot or spread method with extreme care.

For more on choosing the right cooler for your build, read our best PSU for your build article (cooler selection is closely tied to power supply and case airflow).

Testing Your Application

After mounting the cooler and connecting everything, boot up the PC and check temperatures.

1. Enter the BIOS/UEFI, Most motherboards display CPU temperature on the main screen. Idle temperatures should be between 25-40°C (depending on ambient temperature and cooler).
2. Run a stress test, Use free software like Cinebench R23, Prime95, or AIDA64. Monitor temperatures with HWMonitor or HWiNFO. Under full load, a well-cooled CPU should stay below 85°C (for most desktop CPUs). If temperatures exceed 95°C, you may have poor contact, insufficient paste, or a cooler mounting issue.
3. Check for thermal throttling, If the CPU clocks down during the stress test, temperatures are too high.
4. Let it cool down, After the test, idle temperatures should return to normal within a minute.

If temperatures are high, power down, remove the cooler, and inspect the paste spread. Uneven coverage indicates incorrect mounting or insufficient paste. Clean and re-apply.

Related Articles

• The Complete Guide to Buying and Building a PC in Taiwan
• CPU Comparison: Intel vs AMD
• Best PSU for Your Build
• Mini-ITX Build Guide
• High-End Workstation Build
• Laptop Upgrade Options